Goose in the West, turkey in London

25 December · West of England and London

Still kept

In Sandys’s day the Christmas dinner divided by region: goose was the dish in the western counties, while turkey prevailed in London. He noted that capons had been the older Christmas bird, probably because landlords received them from their tenants at that season, as Gascoigne’s lines of 1573 on tenants’ rent-day gifts showed.

Turkies and geese are also common at Christmas, the latter being the dish in the western counties, while the turkey prevails in London.

From Sandys's Christmas Carols, p. lxiii. Read the original

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Folklore from the old calendars

Christmas only in the red letters No longer kept EnglandBy 1740 Poor Robin was complaining that the old Christmas could only be found in the red letters of the almanacs.
The husbandman’s great log and Christmas cheese No longer kept EnglandAt Christmas the countryman laid a great log behind the fire and gathered his neighbours round it.
The sectary who loved Christmas pies No longer kept EnglandIn the Restoration years Poor Robin mocked the Puritans who had tried to put down Christmas.
The quintain on Cornhill at Christmas No longer kept LondonAt Christmas a quintain was set up on Cornhill by Leadenhall, and the Lords of Misrule's followers rode at it.
A yawning match for a Cheshire cheese No longer kept EnglandAmong the Christmas gambols Addison had seen was a yawning match for a Cheshire cheese, which began about midnight when everyone was drowsy.
Christmas husbandly fare No longer kept EnglandA farmer's Christmas table had brawn, pudding and souse with mustard, beef, mutton and pork, shred pies, pig, veal, goose, capon and turkey.
Christmas comes but once a year Still kept EnglandThe saying that Christmas comes but once a year is found in Tusser's verses on the farmer's diet, added in the edition of 1580, as the reason to play and make good cheer at Christmas.
The holly and ivy carol before the King at Whitehall No longer kept LondonAt the court of Charles I a Christmas carol was sung before the King in the Presence Chamber at Whitehall, opening with a flourish of music before the song.
Post and pair at Christmas No longer kept EnglandChristmas was the season for card games played for money, such as post and pair and slam, and a man with empty pockets had to sit them out.
Plough and harrow hung up for the twelve days No longer kept EnglandOver Christmas the farm labourers hung up the plough and harrow and did no field work until the twelve holidays were over, spending the time in piping and merriment.
Choosing husbands and wives by streaks in the ashes Lore and belief EnglandIn the Christmas holidays young people read streaks in the ash-heap to learn who they would marry.
Shoeing the mare at Christmas No longer kept EnglandAmong the Christmas sports of the young men was shoeing the mare, a game of the twelve holidays kept alongside blind-man's-buff and the wassail bowl.
The wassail bowl after fox-i’-th’-hole No longer kept EnglandAt Christmas the wassail bowl was tossed off after a round of the game fox-i'-th'-hole, and blind-man's-buff was played by the fire.
The heathen English New Year on 25 December Lore and belief EnglandThe heathen English began their year on 25 December, the day on which Christians keep the birth of Christ.
Is it not Christmas? No longer kept EnglandAt Christmas people gave themselves up to cards, dice, tables, masking, mumming and bowling, as if the season gave them a special licence to do as they liked.
Ale for as long as the Christmas block burns No longer kept Northern EnglandIn northern farmhouses the servants laid by a large knotty block of wood for the Christmas fire, and for as long as it lasted they were entitled by custom to ale with their meals.
Stanging the scholars at Cambridge No longer kept CambridgeshireAt Christmas-time in some Cambridge colleges a scholar who missed chapel was made to ride a colt-staff or pole as his punishment, which was called stanging.
Carols from Christmas dawn to Twelfth Day No longer kept EnglandAs soon as it grew light on Christmas morning the common people began to sing a Christmas carol, and carols went on being sung until Twelfth Day, alongside the New Year's songs and the one with the burden Hagmena.
Laurel in the college windows No longer kept Cambridgeshire, OxfordshireAt Christmas the windows of houses were dressed with bay and laurel, a custom Bourne said was seldom seen in the North but very common in the South.
Christmas dinner at Holm Cultram Abbey No longer kept CumberlandBefore the Dissolution every tenant of Holm Cultram and his wife dined at the abbey at Christmas.
Hack-pudding for Christmas breakfast at Whitbeck No longer kept CumberlandOn Christmas morning the people of Whitbeck, under Black Combe, rose early to breakfast on hack-pudding.
Fifty-three Christmas carols at Rhuddlan No longer kept FlintshireDavid Jones, a Welsh village poet of Rhuddlan, sang a carol of his own composing in Rhuddlan church every Christmas Day for fifty-three years.
Cornyshe’s reward for a Christmas carol No longer kept EnglandThe book of expenses of Elizabeth of York, queen of Henry VII, shows William Cornyshe, a favourite poet and composer of the court, paid thirteen shillings and fourpence for setting a carol on Christmas Day.
Lighting the candle from the pole No longer kept CornwallOne of the Christmas games of the country people of west Cornwall was played on a round pole about ten feet long laid between two chairs, with a lighted candle on one of them.
Geese-dancers in Cornwall Still kept CornwallBesides the St George players, Cornish guisards or geese-dancers went about at Christmas visiting the houses, the men and women often dressed in each other's clothes.
St George and General Wolfe in West Cornwall No longer kept CornwallAt Christmas young people in the west of Cornwall went round the towns, inns and gentlemen's houses acting the doggerel play of St George for money.
The Middle Temple Lord of Misrule’s court No longer kept LondonAt the Middle Temple Christmas of 1632 the Lord of Misrule kept a full mock court, with his own Lord Keeper, Lord Treasurer, eight white staves, a band of pensioners with their captain, and two chaplains.
Neighbours’ gifts for the Wotton Christmas No longer kept SurreyIn 1634 Richard Evelyn, High Sheriff of Surrey and Sussex, kept a splendid Christmas at his house at Wotton with a regular Lord of Misrule.
The boar’s head at St John’s, Oxford No longer kept OxfordshireWhen St John's College, Oxford, kept its celebrated Christmas Prince in 1607, the boar's head was carried into hall by the tallest and lustiest of the prince's guard.
A boon asked on Christmas Day Lore and belief EnglandIt was believed that anyone in a clean life who asked God for a boon on Christmas Day would be granted it, so far as it was right and good for him.
An ancient Cornish mince-meat Still kept CornwallSandys printed a mince-meat receipt handed down in a Cornish family for many generations, headed as an ancient Cornish custom at Christmas.
Carminow’s twelve fat bullocks No longer kept CornwallJohn Carminow, of a leading Cornish family in the time of Henry VIII, kept open house through the twelve days of Christmas for all comers, drinkers, minstrels and dancers.
Christmas with the Devonshire farmers No longer kept DevonIn The Vindication of Christmas of 1653, Father Christmas said his best welcome in the Puritan years had been among the country farmers of Devonshire.
The Play of the Nativity in the Percy chapel No longer kept EnglandThe gentlemen and children of the Earl of Northumberland's chapel acted the Play of the Nativity before him in his chapel on Christmas morning, for which he gave them twenty shillings.
The Merry Lewid at Monmouth Still kept MonmouthshireAt Christmas the boys round Monmouth carried the Merry Lewid from house to house: a white horse's head and neck, striped black like a zebra, on a pole carried by a man hidden under a sheet.
The Culfer bells of Christmas No longer kept YorkshireIn Josiah Beckwith's parish near Leeds two church bells were rung alternately at seven every morning and evening through the twelve days of Christmas, and at no other time of year.
A dark first foot, because Judas was red Lore and belief YorkshireIn parts of the West Riding, the first person to enter a house on Christmas morning and New Year's morning had to be dark-haired, or the year would be unlucky.
The Ashton faggot at Lydeard No longer kept SomersetAt Christmas, Lydeard St Lawrence in Somerset burned a hooped bundle of sticks called the Ashton faggot, and a quart of cider went to those who watched.
The Lord Mayor of Pennyless Cove No longer kept PembrokeshireAround Christmas the fishermen of Tenby dressed one of their number in evergreens and a mask, named him Lord Mayor of Pennyless Cove, and carried him through the town in a chair with flags and two fiddlers.
The ferryman’s dog at North Clifton No longer kept NottinghamshireBecause the people of North Clifton crossed the Trent free of charge, the ferryman and his dog each got a Christmas dinner at the vicarage.
Mummers who swept the hearth No longer kept YorkshireChristmas mummers at Wakefield would come into a house and, if they found it dirty, sweep the hearth and clean the range, humming "mum-m-m" the whole time.
The Houghton pitmen’s sword dance No longer kept County DurhamAt Christmas a team of nine pitmen from Houghton Colliery went round as sword dancers: five dancers, a clothes-carrier, two clowns and a fiddler.
A fool that marries at Yule Lore and belief Northern EnglandA northern saying called anyone who married at Yule a fool, because the baby would come just when the corn needed cutting.
As many mince pies, so many happy months Lore and belief Cumberland, WestmorlandIn Westmorland and Cumberland it was said that you would have as many happy months in the coming year as mince pies you tasted at Christmas.
The kissing bush at York and Newcastle No longer kept Northumberland, YorkshireAt York and Newcastle upon Tyne a kissing bush was hung up at Christmas, made of mistletoe, evergreens, ribbons and oranges.
A horse and a gig and a good fat pig No longer kept YorkshireAt Christmas the children of Woodhouse near Sheffield went from neighbour to neighbour to beg their Christmas box with a rhyme.
The Christmas loving cup in Cumberland No longer kept Cumberland, WestmorlandAt Christmas parties in Cumberland and Westmorland a bowl of hot rum punch went round as the wassail or loving cup before the guests left.
Largess for the fool-plough No longer kept Northern EnglandAt Christmas bands of rustics in white and coloured ribbons dragged a plough round the villages, begging drink money, with a man dressed as an old woman called the Bessy and a Fool rattling a collecting box.
A giblet pie at Christmas in Newcastle No longer kept NorthumberlandIn Newcastle almost every household, however poor, had a giblet pie at Christmas.
Haggis for Christmas breakfast No longer kept Northern EnglandCountry people in the North of England used to eat haggis for breakfast on Christmas Day, and someone in the family sat up all night so it would be ready early.
The church of boughs Lore and belief EnglandChristmas greenery was said to recall the first Christian church in Britain, built of boughs.
Christ’s mass-box No longer kept EnglandTaylor traced the Christmas box to a box kept on board ships, into which the poor put money so that priests would pray to a saint for the vessel's safe return.
The boy bishop tickled to death No longer kept WiltshireThe choristers of Salisbury Cathedral told of a boy bishop who fell melancholy in his term of office, so the other choirboys tickled him to make him merry and tickled him to death.
Ice to bear a goose Lore and belief LincolnshireEllis gave a Lincolnshire saying about the winter's ice.
Wad-shooting at Kirkden No longer kept AngusThe minister of Kirkden in Angus reported in 1792 that Christmas was kept as a great festival in his parish.
Red apples at Ripon No longer kept YorkshireAt Ripon on Christmas Day the singing boys came into the church with large baskets of red apples, each with a sprig of rosemary stuck in it, and gave them to the whole congregation.
Christmas carols in Scilly church No longer kept Isles of ScillyHeath's account of the Isles of Scilly described the islanders singing carols in church on Christmas Day.
Hunting owls and squirrels on Christmas Day No longer kept SuffolkA man brought up in a village not far from Bury St Edmunds told Brand that when he was a boy the youths there had a country custom of hunting owls and squirrels on Christmas Day.
Crying Yule in Yorkshire No longer kept YorkshireBlount wrote that in Yorkshire and other northern parts the people would cry Ule, Ule even in the churches after the Christmas service, as a token of rejoicing, while the common sort ran about the streets singing a rhyme of puddings and nuts.
A male first foot on Christmas morning Lore and belief EnglandEllis recorded a set of Christmas beliefs alongside the vessel-cup carol.
The apple Florentine No longer kept BedfordshireAt Potton in Bedfordshire and the places round about, some sixty years before Hone's Year Book, every Christmas entertainment had an apple Florentine on the table, of which all the guests ate.
The bells under the valley Lore and belief NottinghamshireNear Raleigh in Nottinghamshire, a Hone correspondent wrote, there was a valley said to have been made by an earthquake centuries before, which swallowed a whole village and its church.
Alexander and the King of Egypt No longer kept CumberlandA Whitehaven correspondent sent Hone the printed text of the mummers' play acted there every Christmas by companies of boys.
A Christmas feed for the beasts No longer kept StirlingshireIn former times the charity of Christmas and New Year was extended to the animals.
The Yorkshire gooding carol No longer kept YorkshireOn Christmas morning children in Yorkshire went gooding from house to house, carrying a small Christmas tree as the badge of their errand.
No spinning on Yule Day No longer kept ScotlandIn Scotland there was an old superstition against spinning on Christmas, or Yule Day.
The boar’s head at Queen’s College Still kept OxfordshireThe boar's head was once the first dish of every great Christmas dinner, carried in with minstrelsy and a carol, and Aubrey said that before the civil wars it came to the table in gentlemen's houses with a lemon in its mouth.
Christmas weather lore Lore and belief Devon, England, ScotlandAn old song in the Harleian manuscripts foretold the year by the weekday of Christmas: a Sunday Christmas meant a good winter, a fair summer and peace, while a Saturday one brought storms that killed man and beast, failing crops and dying children.
Christmas Day in the Highlands No longer kept HighlandsGrant's Popular Superstitions of the Highlands described a Highland Christmas.
Christmas pie and plum porridge Still kept EnglandEvery family once made a great Christmas pie, which Misson found stuffed with neats' tongues, chicken, eggs, sugar, raisins, peel and spice, and Brand said that in the north of England goose was always its chief ingredient.
The hackin No longer kept EnglandAn old tract called Round about our Coal Fire described how an English gentleman had all his tenants and neighbours into his hall at daybreak on Christmas morning.
Yule doughs No longer kept County Durham, EnglandBakers once baked a little image of paste at Christmas, called a yule dough or dow, and gave one to each of their customers, just as chandlers gave their customers Christmas candles.
West Country church carols Still kept Cornwall, DevonDavies Gilbert, who published the old carols of the West of England with their tunes, said that on Christmas Day they were sung in place of the psalms in all the churches, above all at the afternoon service, with the whole congregation joining in.
Wrestling for the boar’s head No longer kept EssexAt Hornchurch the lessee of the tithes, which belonged to New College, Oxford, provided a boar's head, dressed and garnished with bay leaves, every Christmas Day.
The Cumnor Christmas feast No longer kept BerkshireAfter evening service on Christmas Day the tithe-paying parishioners of Cumnor went to the vicarage to be given bread, cheese and ale.
The Glastonbury Thorn Still kept SomersetGlastonbury tradition said Joseph of Arimathea stuck his hawthorn staff into Wearyall Hill, where it grew and blossomed every Christmas Day.

Goose in the West, turkey in London

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